At 11 miles, unspoilt Patara is Turkey's longest beach. Even more important, Patara has escaped the development that mars many lesser beaches around the Mediterranean thanks to the ruins of the once mighty ancient city from which the beach gets its name, and the resident Loggerhead turtles, a protected species which has been laying its eggs here for the past 40 million years.
From the south-east end of the beach, you can admire the distant towering limestone peaks of Lycia. At their feet sprawls a fertile plain, where farmers grow tomatoes, sweet peppers, aubergines and other Mediterranean staples. Between this cultivated land and the serried ranks of umbrella pine-fringed dunes nuzzling the beach, a patchwork of limpid lagoons forms a haven for wildlife. You may catch the croaks of frogs or the trills of wading birds above the crash of breaking waves. To the right, a mountain ridge plunging into the turquoise sea marks the furthest extent of the beach. Gaze we st, across low waves curling gently across the vast expanse of sandy shallows that make this beach so attractive to families, to the Greek island of Rhodes, 50 miles offshore. With the exception of the small café, there is nothing man-made in sight.
Fortunately for holidaymakers, the low-key, low-rise village-cum-resort of Gelemi (which is also referred to as Patara) lies in a shallow valley a little over a mile inland. Centred around a few restaurants, shops and bars, the village didn't come into existence until the Fifties, when the nomadic pastoralists who spent their summers high in the Lycian mountains and their summers on the plains around here, decided to establish a permanent base.
No tour companies operate in Patara, so everyt hing is independent. The pensions and eating and drinking places are run by local families; most of the delicious food is produced locally. The only beach café is run by the local authority, and profits are ploughed back into the area. This café is also the place to hire beach loungers and umbrellas.
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To reach the beach, you pass through the ruins, which have an admission charge of £1.25. However, those staying for a few days can purchase a site and beach pass, which allows 10 visits, for £1.85; under 12s are free. Note that the beach is off-limits between sunset and 8.30am.
Founded by the mysterious Lycians, Patara became an important city in the Roman Empire. Its surviving buildings – a monumental triumphal arch, newly restored council chamber, bathhouses, temples, colonnaded streets, theatre and much more – are fascinating to explore. A team of archaeologists from Antalya University excavate here each summer, and millions have been spent on reconstructing important buildings.
With the exception of the small café, there is nothing man-made in sight Terry Richardson
Source: Patara, Turkey: Secret Seaside
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